Most conservatory problems start small and get worse slowly, so it helps to check the room properly once a year. This checklist takes about half an hour. It works outwards from the roof to the floor, and each section tells you which type of work the symptom usually points to. Stay on the ground throughout: a conservatory roof is not safe to stand on.
The roof
- Stains, drips or a damp patch near the house wall after rain. Often a gasket, a slipped panel or failed flashing, so start with conservatory roof repairs.
- Misted or foggy glass between the panes. The sealed unit has failed and normally needs replacing.
- Polycarbonate that has turned yellow, brittle or green, or sheets that rattle in wind. These suggest the roof is near the end of its life.
- Cracked or slipped panels, or caps that have split along the glazing bars.
- Gutters that overflow or downpipes that stain the wall below.
Frames, doors and glazing
- Doors that drop, stick or will not lock cleanly.
- Windows that no longer close flush, or vents that jam.
- Perished rubber seals, loose trims or gaps you can see daylight through.
- Soft, flaking or rotten timber on sills and fascias, or discoloured, chalky uPVC.
- Condensation or mould on the inside of the glass, which can be a ventilation problem as much as a fault.
A tired set of frames and glazing is a good case for conservatory refurbishment, as long as the structure underneath is sound.
Base, floor and structure
- Cracks in the dwarf wall or mortar, especially if they are wider at the top or look recent.
- Gaps opening up where the frame meets the house, or a floor that slopes.
- A damp or musty smell at floor level.
If the base appears to be moving, get it looked at before spending money on glass, doors or decoration. A surveyor or structural engineer can tell you whether movement is old and stable or still active.
Comfort
- Too hot to sit in on a sunny day, or fading furniture and flooring.
- Too cold to use from late autumn to spring, or heating that barely makes a difference.
- A draught you can feel by hand around doors, vents and roof edges.
Comfort problems are the usual reason to look at conservatory insulation and upgrades rather than repair.
What to do with your findings
One or two minor items point to a repair. A pile of items across the roof, frames and floor suggests a bigger decision, and our guide to repairing, refurbishing, re-roofing or replacing walks through it. For rough prices, see the leak repair cost guide and the refurbishment cost guide, or use the cost calculator.
How to check your conservatory in 30 minutes
- Look at the roof from the garden
Check the roof covering, glazing bars, caps, gutters and the line where the roof meets the house wall for stains, slipped panels or misted glass. Do not climb onto the roof.
- Check the roof from inside
Look at the underside for drips, damp patches and discoloured sheets, ideally after a rainy day.
- Test every door and window
Open, close and lock each door, window and vent. Note anything that sticks, drops or leaves a gap.
- Inspect the frame, sills and seals
Look for rotten or flaking timber, chalky uPVC and perished rubber seals.
- Check the base and floor
Look for cracks in the dwarf wall, gaps between the frame and the house wall, a sloping floor and damp at floor level.
- Note comfort problems
Write down when the room is too hot or too cold, and where you feel draughts.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I check my conservatory?
Once a year is a sensible habit, and it is worth a quick look after severe storms. Spring is a good time because you can plan work before the busy summer.
Is a leaking conservatory roof an emergency?
Not usually, but water getting into the frame or the house wall can cause damage if left. A temporary fix and a prompt survey are sensible.
Should I call a roofer or a conservatory specialist?
A specialist who knows your type of roof system is usually better, because replacement parts and details differ between systems. A general roofer may be fine for gutters and flashing.
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